The Split issue, November 2026
Split
Split does not hide its contradictions.
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The Split reading list
All 11 Split stories
Tours and ticketsThe lead story
Walking Split's Old Town Before Nine in October 2026
The Roman precinct is free, the interiors are not, and in October the whole thing is yours for two hours at either end of the day. Those two hours are the ones to plan around.
Rasmus Holt
Tours and tickets
Split's Cathedral of St Domnius and the Bell Tower Climb
Diocletian's own tomb became the church of the martyr he killed, and the 57m tower beside it is open again. This guide covers what the ticket buys, when to go and whether the climb earns the queue.
Rasmus Holt
From Pazar to Peka: A Day of Eating Your Way Through Split
A single-day route through Split's market stalls, fish trattorias, wine bars and konobas, built around exactly what the Adriatic and the Dalmatian hinterland put on the table each morning.
Chiara Benedetti
The 48 Hours in Split That Start After the Tour Boats Leave
When the cruise crowds clear the Riva by evening, Split hands itself over to rakija cellars, a Roman-arch tavern, and a beach club that runs till dawn. Here's how to spend the two days that belong to the city, not the day trip.
Rasmus Holt
Marjan: Split's Forested Peninsula and the Hill That Keeps the City Sane
How to walk Split's pine-forested hill — its cliff hermitages, hidden beaches, sculptor's villa and summit café — the way locals actually do it.
Rasmus Holt
More from the Split issue
Chasing the Jadrolinija Timetable: A Split Island-Hopping Story
Rasmus Holt
The Riva, Split: Split's Stage for the Daily Passeggiata
Rasmus Holt
Tours and tickets
How to Do Zlatni Rat Beach as a Day Trip from Split
Rasmus Holt
Tours and tickets
Split's Blue Lagoon Day Boat to Krknjaši Bay in October
Rasmus Holt
Tours and tickets
Rubbing Gregory of Nin's Bronze Toe in Split
Rasmus Holt
Following Torcida Through Split on a Hajduk Matchday
Rasmus Holt
An insider’s read on Split
Built at the turn of the 4th century AD as a heavily fortified retirement residence for Emperor Diocletian, the palace was abandoned after his death. When nearby Salona was sacked in the 7th century, refugees moved inside the thick Roman walls, converting temples into churches and imperial chambers into homes. This organic, defensive adaptation created the dense architectural puzzle that exists today.
The character of Split is defined by this survivalist history, resulting in a proud, stubborn local identity that revolves around the Hajduk Split football club and the preservation of Dalmatian traditions.
It is a living, breathing city where the Roman Emperor Diocletian's retirement palace forms the core of daily life.
From our Split guide
Seven neighbourhoods, seven ways to stay
Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.
Grad (Old Town)
First-time visitors who want to be steps from major historical sights. The trade-off is constant noise, high prices, and crowds.
The historic core built inside and immediately around Diocletian's Palace. It is a dense maze of limestone alleys, medieval arches, and lively squares.
Where to stay Boutique heritage hotels integrated into the ancient stone walls.
Stay in Grad (Old Town)
Varoš
Travelers seeking a quieter, more authentic atmosphere while remaining within a five-minute walk of the center. The trade-off is steep climbing.
An old fisherman's quarter west of the palace, characterized by steep stone stairways, traditional cottages, and quiet residential corners.
Where to stay Renovated stone apartments and small family-run guesthouses.
Stay in Varoš
Radunica & Lučac
Budget-conscious travelers looking for lower accommodation rates and local taverns. The trade-off is that some areas look slightly run-down.
Historic working-class neighborhoods east of the palace. They feature narrow streets, stone houses, and a gritty, unpolished local feel.
Where to stay Budget apartments and local guesthouses.
Stay in Radunica & Lučac
Bačvice
Beach lovers and nightlife seekers. The trade-off is the noise from beach clubs late into the night during summer.
A lively coastal neighborhood centered around the city's main sandy beach. It transitions from a family beach by day to a nightlife hub by night.
Where to stay Mid-range hotels and modern apartments.
Stay in Bačvice
Meje
Families and travelers seeking peace, sea views, and green spaces. The trade-off is the 20-minute walk to the Old Town.
An upscale, leafy residential district located on the southern slopes of Marjan Hill. It is quiet, green, and lined with villas.
Where to stay High-end holiday villas and luxury apartments.
Stay in Meje
Spinut
Long-term travelers and sports fans. The trade-off is the lack of historic charm and the distance from the main beaches.
A residential and student-heavy neighborhood north of Marjan Hill, home to the distinctive Poljud Stadium.
Where to stay Student residences and budget rental apartments.
Stay in Spinut
Gripe
Travelers interested in military history and local sports culture. The trade-off is the lack of immediate sea access.
A residential district east of the center, dominated by a 17th-century fortress and mid-century Yugoslav apartment blocks.
Where to stay Standard residential apartments.
Stay in GripeBook before you land
Top-rated tours and tickets in Split, with live prices from Viator.
GROUP/ PRIVATE Walking History Tour of SPLIT with Daniela
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Private Walks & Storytelling - the best small group tour in Split
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Split Game of Thrones Tour & History Walk Top-Rated All inclusive
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Private Sailing Tour Omiš - Brač with Homemade Lunch, Wine & Beer
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Split Palace Secrets and Fun History Tour with Mario
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Split Palace & Old Town -Private walking tour- Entrance included
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Private rafting on Cetina river with caving & cliff jumping,free photos & videos
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Split Walking Tour: History, Legends & Tales
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Prices from Viator; we may earn a commission when you book — at no extra cost to you. Tours are sold and operated by Viator, the merchant of record. Ratings are collected by Viator and Tripadvisor.
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The Split guide
Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.
Where to eat
Dining
Konoba Fetivi
This family-run tavern serves exceptionally prepared local classics, earning a consistent reputation for authenticity.
Signature: Black risotto made with cuttlefish ink
Dvor
An upscale coastal restaurant offering refined seafood on a terrace overlooking the sea.
Signature: Slow-cooked octopus stew
Konoba Hvaranin
A cozy, intellectual hangout known for traditional Dalmatian fish preparation and a warm atmosphere.
Signature: Gregada (fish and potato stew)
Šug
A modern bistro that elevates traditional peasant recipes and slow-cooked seafood sauces.
Signature: Macaruni pasta with beef and shrimp sauce
Noštromo
Located next to the historic fish market, ensuring the daily catch goes straight from the stalls to the kitchen.
Signature: Salt-baked wild sea bass
Konoba Otprilike Ovako
An intimate tavern with just a few tables, focusing on traditional, unpretentious fish preparation.
Signature: Grilled sardines with local olive oil
Chops Grill
A sleek, modern steakhouse serving premium cuts of international beef alongside local meats.
Signature: Dry-aged T-bone steak
Kadena
Offers sophisticated meat dishes paired with an extensive wine list and panoramic views of the marina.
Signature: Beef tenderloin in truffle sauce
Villa Spiza
A tiny, rustic joint with a daily handwritten menu based entirely on what was fresh at the market that morning.
Signature: Sautéed broad beans with pancetta
Tri Volta (Dioklecijan)
An unpretentious, old-school tavern popular with locals for cheap wine and cured meats inside the palace walls.
Signature: Pršut (dry-cured ham) and local sheep's cheese
Konoba Marjan
A family-run establishment serving classic Dalmatian cold starters and home-style cooking.
Signature: Marinated anchovies and octopus salad
Kantun Paulina
A legendary takeaway spot that has been serving the city's favorite grilled minced meat flatbreads for decades.
Signature: Ćevapi in lepinja bread with ajvar
Popaj
A local fast-food institution famous for massive, budget-friendly sandwiches and wraps.
Signature: Chicken sandwich with local sauces
Buffet Fife
Famous for its noisy atmosphere, communal tables, and massive portions of basic Dalmatian home cooking.
Signature: Fried calamari with chard and potatoes
Pandora Greenbox
A plant-filled, whimsical restaurant serving creative, fully plant-based meals and fresh juices.
Signature: Beetroot burger with sweet potato wedges
Upcafe
An organic, macrobiotic-focused cafe popular with health-conscious locals for lunch.
Signature: Daily vegan stew with whole grains
Art & history
Culture
Split Archaeological Museum
The oldest museum in Croatia, housing an impressive collection of Greek, Roman, and early Christian artifacts.
Etnografski Muzej
Located next to the Vestibul, it showcases traditional Dalmatian costumes, crafts, and lifestyle artifacts.
Croatian Maritime Museum
Housed inside a 17th-century fortress, it details the region's rich naval history, model ships, and weaponry.
Diocletian's Palace
The massive, living Roman fortress that forms the core of the city, built for Emperor Diocletian.
Cathedral of Saint Domnius
Originally built as Diocletian's mausoleum, this is one of the oldest Catholic cathedrals still in use.
Temple of Jupiter
An ancient Roman temple dedicated to Jupiter, later converted into a Christian baptistery.
Timing
When to visit
Spring
May brings pleasant temperatures around 22°C and fewer crowds. The sea is still cool for swimming, but the city is relaxed and outdoor dining is fully operational.
Summer
July and August are hot, dry, and crowded. Temperatures regularly exceed 30°C. Prices peak, and the city fills with festival-goers and cruise ship passengers.
Autumn
September and October are ideal. The Adriatic remains warm enough for swimming, the summer crowds disperse, and accommodation rates drop significantly.
Winter
November to April is quiet and windy. Many tourist-oriented businesses close, but you get to experience the city as the locals do, without the crowds.
What it costs
Budgeting
Logistics
Getting around
From the airport
The Pleso airport shuttle bus runs in tandem with flight arrivals, taking passengers directly to the main bus station next to the ferry port. Public bus Line 37 is cheaper but slower, stopping frequently along the old road. Taxis are expensive; ride-hailing apps offer more predictable pricing.
Public transit
Promet Split operates a reliable network of yellow city buses. They connect the historic center with outlying neighborhoods and beaches. Tickets can be bought directly from the driver or at Tisak newsstands for a slight discount.
Passes & tickets
The Split Card is available at tourist offices. It offers free entry to select museums and discounts at partner venues, though it is only highly cost-effective if you plan on intensive sightseeing over a short period.
On foot
The historic center, including Diocletian's Palace and the Riva, is entirely pedestrianized. The stone streets are polished smooth and can be slippery, making sturdy footwear essential. Most major sights are within easy walking distance of each other.
Local etiquette
Safety & etiquette
- Do not walk through the historic center or Diocletian's Palace in swimwear; local authorities issue fines for inappropriate dress.
- Do not climb on the ancient Roman ruins or columns in the Peristyle square.
- Keep noise levels down when walking through the Old Town late at night, as these historic buildings are still residential homes.
Travel smart
Practical tips
- Avoid eating at restaurants directly on the Riva; they are expensive and generally offer lower quality than those hidden in the back alleys of Varoš.
- Wear shoes with good grip when exploring the Old Town; the ancient limestone paving stones have been polished smooth over centuries and are incredibly slick.
- Use official ride-hailing apps rather than hailing taxis on the street to avoid heavily inflated tourist rates.
- Visit the Cathedral bell tower early in the morning to avoid the midday heat and the long queues of cruise ship passengers.
- Carry some cash, as smaller bakeries, market stalls, and local taverns often do not accept credit cards.
- If visiting in summer, climb Marjan Hill either early in the morning or at sunset to avoid the intense midday heat.
Before you go
Split FAQs
Can you swim in the center of Split?
Yes, Bačvice beach is a sandy beach located just a ten-minute walk east of the ferry port, though cleaner, pebbly beaches like Ježinac lie further west.
Is the tap water safe to drink?
Yes, the tap water in Split is of excellent quality, sourced directly from the nearby Jadro River.
Do I need to book ferry tickets in advance?
Yes, if you are traveling with a car in July or August, booking in advance is essential; foot passengers can usually buy tickets on the day, though booking online saves time.
How many days do I need in Split?
Two days are sufficient to see the main historical sights and climb Marjan Hill, but it serves as an excellent base for a week of day trips to nearby islands and national parks.
Is Split expensive?
Prices have risen significantly since the adoption of the Euro, especially inside the palace walls, but neighborhood taverns in Varoš and Radunica remain reasonably priced.